Start point
Devil’s Lake Trail Junction, mile 1961.9
End point
Highway 242 and McKenzie Pass, mile 1984.8
Miles hiked
22.9
Wilderness area
Willamette National Forest
Three Sisters Wilderness
Deschutes National Forest
People I met
Pika
The day on trail
It was a really gorgeous morning, with the sun coming up behind the mountains we camped at. I love camping in a saddle, especially with vegetation and wind blocks.
The trail had a lot of blowdowns from fires, though. Which never stops being tragic. I wonder how long until the trail is all burn zone. Something needs to be done, because if it’s not, that will happen sooner rather than later.
There was a little sign letting me know where I was and where to find James Creek, which always delights me.
The trail soon opened up into a beautiful meadow of lupine backed by stunning Oregon pine forest.
The smells are intoxicating and the colors just keep pulling me in. Purple is so much my favorite color and backed with the green…I just can’t get enough of it.
I just kept on. Today is going to be really cool because we’re going through a sacred site for Native people, the Obsidian limited entry area. There’s a waterfall there which is known for being really pretty. We’re stopping for lunch around the falls, then continuing on. We’re going to get to McKenzie Pass, then hitch into Bend and take a zero. A zero we very much need after pushing these higher mile days. Plus, food is running a little low. My stomach is a furnace which cannot be sated.
Walking on, I found more signs.
I just love signs. They all have such different character. The information they convey reminds me there’s more than just the Trail; there’s an entire web of trails and things to see and do. People are here for all sorts of reasons, and I’m just a single piece of the recreationalist puzzle.
Speaking of people, I ran into a really cool person, Pika. We were chatting for a couple seconds, then they said they recognized my voice and asked me my name. It ends up they know me from the Trail Correspondents podcast!
And look at those sunnies. You just know they’re a rad person.
I quickly came up to the Obsidian limited access area.
The PCT long distance permit allows access to the area, though it doesn’t allow camping. It’s a sensitive and sacred area.
I followed the PCT through it, not taking a detour. Fully planning on stopping at the falls for a bite.
The terrain was amazing. Seeing obsidian lying in volcanic soil was surreal. It’s easy to understand why this volcanic glass holds such esteem in stories, legends, and many religions. It has a beauty that’s hard to capture in a photo and an energy that needs to be touched and seen to understand.
I got to the falls and met a few people, one is from AZ. I can’t remember their names, but they were super nice.
I stripped down between waterfalls visitors and took a super refreshing rinse in the water. It refreshed my body and helped my soul feel a little better. Water can do that, especially water in nature.
After sitting and drying, it was time to keep going. The limited access area is small, so it didn’t take long to get out of that zone.
There were some obvious signs of it being a sensitive area.
The terrain didn’t get any less interesting though.
Just because there’s a 1.8 mile section of sensitive volcanic area doesn’t mean the volcanic features stop there.
This terrain was really rough, in the most literal sense. The rocks were sharp and started to cut up my shoes. The mesh uppers on my shoes started to get cut apart near my pinky toes, and the tread got a little shredded.
But it was fun. There was one section where a couple of slight older aged day hikers were sheltering under some very limited shade. The husband was struggling in the head and exposed sun, and the wife was taking care of him. I checked in to see if they needed anything. He was trying to keep his lunch and his water down. I offered them some electrolytes or an SOS button press, both of which they declined, so I kept on my way.
The section immediately before the struggling couple was so intense. The rocks squeaked under my feet and the dirt and dust coated my legs. Sweat poured off my neck and chest. And when I got up to the top, I looked back and just saw the glorious valley I just climbed out of.
Soon I came to a little spring area. There was a couple who offered me their last beer. Not being insane, I gladly accepted it and sat down. They were out there, from Bend, with their kids. Soon Ketchup came by and I gave her the last half of my beer. I asked them, indirectly if they had a place I could stay. They didn’t get the hint.
As much as I adore Ketchup, I really needed some space to myself to regroup my head. I love hiking and camping with her, but this boy needs a little space.
After continuing on a little, I ran into them again. The wife asked “We’re you looking for a place to stay?”
I said “I am, but it’s okay if you don’t have one.”
She said “Oh, no, we’d love to have you over. We just have a plans tomorrow, so if you’re good on your own, you’re welcome. Sorry we didn’t get it right away.”
We exchanged numbers and she went off to her family and I kept on.
Even when I try to ask for help, I’m still not that great at it sometimes. I still have so much to learn about myself.
I let Ketchup know I’d be staying elsewhere and we walked onward.
Forests hid more volcanic ranges. Sharp, crumbling, sliding rocks contrasting with the soft towers of trees. Pine air enveloping ranges of ancient dust from the fires inside the Earth.
A couple signs let us know that we’re not allowed to camp there. No worries, boss, we weren’t planning on it.
There was one final volcanic range to cross before we got to McKenzie pass to try and hitch into town. It was a slog. We were both exhausted and the rocks were just so hard.
We made it, though, to the damn road. The super quiet road. The road where cars went by only every 10-15 minutes and there’s no cell service.
We put our thumbs up and hoped for the best. No dice, though. Nothing. Three cars went by, no one even slowed down. Ketchup kept her thumb up while I walked cityward to try and get a signal to call a cab.
When I got about 1,000 feet from where we tried to hitch, Ketchup got us a ride. I sprinted back and hopped in. It was a guy in his mid 20s with his grandfather. They were in town for his grandfather’s birthday. They said they’d drive us to Sisters, which is the town before Bend, where we wanted to get to. A ride is a ride, and halfway there is closer than not there at all. We gladly accepted.
For some inexplicable reason, they had a box of Liquid IV electrolyte powder. They gave us each a bunch of packets for use later, which was welcome and helpful.
At Sisters, we tried to hitch and saw it wasn’t going to get us anywhere. We ended up calling a cab company which would pick us up in about a half hour. We were famished, so made plans to get food and eat before the cab. Ketchup went and grabbed a pizza while I watched her stuff. During that time, I called a spot to get an Indian inspired noodle dish for pickup once she got back. She got back and I got my food.
It was good. Not the $19 I spent on it good, but good.
We got the ride to Bend, and had them drop us off at Crux Brewing. I’m sorry, “Crux Fermentation Project”. They give the first pint free to hikers.
And holy smokes was it good. We sadly missed the food trucks there, but the orange creamsicle beer was a pure dream.
I messaged the family I stayed with and they picked us up in their Rivian. Another electric car ride! They dropped Ketchup off at her room, and took me to their place. They had some grilled chicken and veggies ready for me.
They oriented me to their space, their laundry room, and we stayed up for about 30 minutes talking, the husband and wife, their eldest daughter, and me. It was a really great chat. But we were all spent so we turned in.
The room they gave me was incredible. It had a bathroom attached to it so I took full advantage of it and had a long, cleansing shower. There was so much dirt and sweat, and the strain from the day just washed off me.
I dried off, climbed into an absurdly fluffy, soft bed, and knocked off.